Categories Pastry Chef Articles
Paul Yochum: “Donuts are time consuming. They are a true labor of love”
Yeasted pastries and especially those known as donuts have not traditionally enjoyed the gastronomic prestige of other doughs, such as puff pastry, pâte à choux or brioche, considered more noble. Either because of the elaboration process, which focuses on frying these doughs, or because the industry has monopolized their manufacture and commercialization, donuts have had little prominence in artisan showcases.
In this context, the North American pastry chef Paul Yochum has devoted a good part of his professional career to getting the most out of donuts, optimizing their composition and preparation, and even gastronomizing them with such suggestive and creative versions as the Saint Honoré Donut or the S’mores Donut. In so good… magazine 32 we have interviewed him!
Why have you focused on a product as specific as the donut? What is so special about it?
Donuts are a core memory of my childhood growing up in the States and I believe one of my biggest inspirations for my pastries are influenced by nostalgia. My pursuit to slowly perfect my recipe took the better part of my pastry career. A glazed donut is so simple yet so many factors can affect the final product. My donuts will always evolve just like I do with the new things that I learn from the pastry community.
How would you define the perfect donut? What is the main secret to achieve it? How can we recognize it?
My favorite donuts are yeast-raised. My three criteria for a perfect donut are a golden brown color with that iconic pale line around the middle, a fluffy dough that leaves a bite mark without deflating the ring, and a flavorful glaze that doesn’t rely on artificial compounds. I have found that perfection comes from repetition and allowing yourself the proper amount of time to make sure all of your details have been accounted for. I can always tell when a batch of donuts has been rushed.
Why do you think many artisan bakers don’t make donuts and leave them in the hands of the industry?
Donuts are time consuming. They are a true labor of love. Everyone wants a donut first thing in the morning with a coffee which means artisans need to account for scaling, mixing, multiple rounds of proofing, frying, cooling, glazing, and decorating before they can even make it to the front case before 7 am. Industrial methods have eliminated some of these steps with instant mixes but you can tell the second you bite into a donut whether or not it is artisanally made.
Discover the full interview, tips and tricks, and te following recipes in so good.. magazine 32
