Categories Pastry Chef Articles
Russ Thayer. Searching for the boundaries of chocolate
We welcome Russ Thayer to the so good.. magazine family – a versatile professional who, despite his youth, has a solid career as a chef, teacher and researcher. He attributed to his grandmother all the blame for his first approach to the world of pastry, when he was little he wanted to drink coffee but ‘she would give me hot chocolate, which she told me was coffee’, he recalls. Now he is a true expert chocolatier who, under the banner of Callebaut, is dedicated to finding the best way to exploit the flavors of chocolate in ganaches, pralinés and other preparations, and to prolong the shelf life of products naturally. In this sense, he confesses he is fascinated by this ingredient, ‘It can be hard, it can be soft, it can be rigid, it can be flexible, it can be colored, flavored, molded, etc. It can be endlessly manipulated in so many ways. Every time I make a product or execute a technique, I learn a little something about the medium and these small lessons help me to develop new ideas and techniques to push the boundaries of chocolate and of pastry forward.’
The beginning
❝My first pastry memories are of wanting to have coffee with my grandmother in the morning, but instead of coffee, she would give me hot chocolate, which she told me was coffee. This is my first memory of chocolate. I’ve been in love with it ever since! After that, I was always drawn into the kitchen and would help prepare desserts with her. This is a feeling inside of me that I still have to this day. Growing up I also loved to draw and create detailed designs, and was strongest in the sciences in school. I didn’t know it at the time, but these natural passions and strengths of mine just so happen to correlate perfectly with pastry in the fact that, design, precision, and scientific knowledge are paramount.
While at school, I was introduced to Chef Geoffrey Blount, the pastry program director. He would give me my first introduction into professional pastry production and opened my eyes to the passion and dedication required for pastry. Immediately after finishing the savory program, I enrolled in the pastry program. I found in the pastry kitchen a world of weights and measures, precision in execution, and creative expression which is a natural balance for me. Once I entered the pastry school, I knew there was no looking back.❞
‘I found in the pastry kitchen a world of weights and measures, precision in execution, and creative expression which is a natural balance for me.’
The career
❝I began my career in a small, humble restaurant in my hometown of Abingdon, Virginia. After my studies, I worked as the pastry chef for a variety of private clubs in the piedmont region of North Carolina. After more than six years I Joined the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Charlotte, North Carolina, knowing that the experience would provide me with a more diverse skillset and the chance to manage more people. After almost 5 years in the hotel, I decided to change slightly my path. I transitioned to the corporate side of the hospitality industry by joining PreGel America. There I worked as Pastry Chef alongside Frederic Monti, Corporate Pastry Chef, for the better part of 5 years. This is where I first began my role as an instructor in the field of pastry, giving numerous demonstrations and courses for the company in its training school. It was here that I found my passion for teaching people the intricacies of pastry.
Through the training school at PreGel, I had the pleasure to meet Jerome Landrieu, Head of the Chocolate Academy™ Chicago, and after some years I was able to join his team at the Chocolate Academy™ Chicago, as the Callebaut Chef for the United States. I have now been working for Callebaut for the past three years, teaching courses in the Chocolate Academy™ Chicago, as well as other Chocolate Academy™ Centers worldwide. I furthermore give demonstrations for Callebaut, develop new recipes, and support customers large and small with technical advice and expertise.❞
Research
❝Since joining Callebaut, my creations focus of course, always on chocolate. I work with a wide range of clients and students, so I must be well versed in many aspects of the industry: pastry, confections, ice cream, plated dessert, etc., so I have the opportunity to explore a wide range of concepts. In the past few years I have chosen personally to focus on confectionery. I have addressed such issues as how to best exploit the flavors of chocolate in ganaches, pralinés, and all products we make with chocolate. I am researching ways in which to extend the shelf life of our products in the most natural ways possible while still maximizing flavor. We recognize that in the industry this is one of our biggest challenges, to have a balance of: taste, texture, natural, healthy ingredients and longevity in our products. I have studied extensively the interactions of ingredients in terms of taste and preservation qualities for that purpose.❞
‘In the past few years I have chosen personally to focus on confectionery. I have addressed such issues as how to best exploit the flavors of chocolate in ganaches, pralinés, and all products we make with chocolate. I am researching ways in which to extend the shelf life of our products in the most natural ways possible while still maximizing flavor.’
Fascination
❝I am daily fascinated by how endlessly adaptable chocolate is as a medium. It can be hard, it can be soft, it can be rigid, it can be flexible, it can be colored, flavored, molded, etc. It can be endlessly manipulated in so many ways. Every time I make a product or execute a technique, I learn a little something about the medium and these small lessons help me to develop new ideas and techniques to push the boundaries of chocolate and of pastry forward.❞
The most important
❝To learn to taste and be obsessed with it. I am the first to admit that my first thoughts are visual, and I spend a lot of time thinking about how to make products visually pleasing, but ultimately the success of a product lies in the taste. Clients will not come back for the look alone, but if they love the way it tastes, they will return for sure. Striking a balance between looks and taste is paramount. It must be both. What has helped me the most in my career is tasting the work of other chefs. Not only do I find inspiration in their creations visually, but seeing how other chef’s combine ingredients is always a great place for me to start with my creations.❞
‘Striking a balance between looks and taste is paramount. It must be both. What has helped me the most in my career is tasting the work of other chefs. Not only do I find inspiration in their creations visually, but seeing how they combine ingredients.’
The future
❝Technology will continue to be a major influence in pastry and its evolution. We daily see advancements in 3D printing technology as well as other technologies that are coming to our industry which revolutionize the creativity of chefs. Technologies such as these allow us to create shapes never before possible, and also to work with textures in those shapes that also were never feasible before. With these new possibilities, chefs are free to rethink the definition of creativity and provide new experiences for their consumers. For instance, I used hydro-cutting technology to realize the shape of my creation, Gold3, which allowed me to easily pipe a praline inside the ganache.
Secondly, the increasing interest in using products that have a minimal carbon footprint is becoming more and more important. Consumers are conscious of their impact on our planet and this ultimately will affect their purchasing decisions. This paired with improving education of consumers about the importance of the health aspects of the products they consume will change the ingredients that chefs are willing and need to use.❞
Russ Thayer
You will find these creations with recipes at so good #19
