Chocolate Joris Vanhee so good #32
Dessert ‘seed’ with Vietnam chocolate, cocoa crumble and red fruits compote by Joris Vanhee
Belgian chocolatier Joris Vanhee shares his talent and knowledge from the Puratos academy in Tokyo, and does so through a chocolate whose cocoa is harvested in Vietnam just 60 days before its transformation in that same country.
The chef returns to the pages of so good.. magazine 32, taking advantage of the particularities of this especially fresh chocolate to create four different desserts in which that freshness stands out in a very special way.
One of them is “The day you plant a seed is not the day you eat the fruit” with a naturalist aesthetic. “Let me explain two technical points from this recipe: For the ganache montée, the cream in this recipe has been partly replaced by water, which enhances the fresh taste of the chocolate; and for the croustillant, in recent years I no longer add chocolate to the croustillants in my pastries, it improves the texture even better. As the title reads, this pastry contains a small message”, assures us.
The day you plant a seed is not the day you eat the fruit
Chocolate sponge
Check out the recipe in so good #32
Cocoa crumble
- 240 g butter
- 285 sugar
- 133 g almond powder
- 265 g pastry flour
- 54 g Belcolade Premium cocoa powder
- 10 g fleur de sel
Mix the cold butter with the sugar. Add all the other dry ingredients and mix shortly. Push through a coarse sieve, keep in the refrigerator to set. Bake at 150ºC for 12 minutes approximately.
Red fruits compote
- 85 sugar
- 6,5 g yellow pectin
- 5 g gelatin
- 20 g water
- 250 g tayberry purée
- 250 g broken raspberries (frozen)
- 85 g invert sugar
Mix the sugar and yellow pectin, keep aside. In a pan, heat the tayberry purée, broken raspberries and invert sugar. Add the mixture of sugar and pectin. Stir while boiling for 1 minute. Add the gelatin mass to the warm compote. Keep the compote in the refrigerator.
Croustillant with thyme
- 170 g almond praliné 60%
- 115 g feuilletine
- 42 g olive oil
- 0,6 g dry thymes leaves
Blend all the ingredients together in a bowl. Keep aside.
Whipped ganache
- 280 g water
- 405 g 60 Days milk chocolate 57%
- 75 g invert sugar
- 440 g fresh cream, 35% fat
In a pan, combine the water and invert sugar. Heat and pour over the chocolate drops, mixing with an immersion blender. Add the cold cream to the ganache and mix again. Reserve in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours. Whip to obtain a soft chocolate cream.
Chocolate spray
- 500 g 60 Days Vietnam dark chocolate 74%
- 500 g cocoa butter
- q.s. red colored cocoa butter
Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter together. Spray at 50ºC.
Assembly
First step: Put 20 g of cocoa crumble in a 6-cm dome silicone mold. Push the crumble to the side so that a cavity is created in the center. Pipe 25 g of whipped chocolate ganache into the center. Freeze. Second step: Place a square of 5×5-cm chocolate sponge in a 6-cm dome silicone mold. Put 6 g of croustillant on the chocolate sponge. Then pipe 12 g of red fruits compote onto the croustillant. Finish with a drop of whipped ganache. Unmold the frozen dome (step 1), turn and push on top of the red fruit compote. Freeze. Unmold the frozen cakes and spray with chocolate spray at 50ºC. Spray some light spots with green cocoa butter. Finish with a chocolate leaf and a fresh thyme sprig.
Discover the full recipe and these three creations by Joris Vanhee in so good.. magazine 32