‘Tutti-frutti’ bar with mantecado ice cream, by Mario Masiá
In the book, Más, by the master ice cream maker Mario Masiá, a fruit dice was made especially designed for frozen pastry and ice cream through a simple technique with agar agar. More fruit flavor, less sweetness, and an ideal cutting texture after three months in the refrigerator and six months in the freezer. This topping and many more will be found in the book called Más, which has just been published by so good magazine and Vilbo group. The proposal with this book is to address all kinds of pastry creations that can be used as a complement to an ice cream dessert, with a good tasting texture at sub-zero temperatures. In this example, Mario Masiá uses a classic from traditional ice cream making, the mantecado ice cream (very similar to the biscuit glacé) to make a tutti-frutti, one of the most popular flavors of the display cases in Spanish ice cream parlors.
Presentation in an ice cream pan
Base formula for gelled fruit at 20º Brix
- 200 g fruit purée (mango/raspberry)
- 100 g sugar
- 5 g agar agar
Place the purée in a saucepan over the heat and stir. Sprinkle in the agar agar and sugar, previously mixed together. Continue to stir so as to prevent lumps from forming. Bring to a boil and remove from the heat. Cast over a silicone mat to a height of 4 mm and reserve in the refrigerator for two hours until it has gelled. Cut into 4-mm dice.
Mantecado ice cream
- 559 g water
- 34 g dextrose
- 50 g dehydrated glucose 38 DE
- 97 g non-fat milk powder, 1% fat
- 16 g fresh egg yolks
- 5 g Cremodan SE-30 stabilizer
- 110 g sucrose
- 48 g Kelmy cooked egg yolks (50% sugar-50% egg yolks)
- 80 g butter
- 1 g cinnamon
- 1 g lemon zest
- 2 u vanilla beans
SP: 18%
AFP: -11ºC
Place the water over the heat and add the milk powder. At 40ºC, add the sugars, previously mixed with the stabilizer and spices. Over 60ºC, add the butter and then the egg yolks. Continue the pasteurization process up to 85ºC and rapidly cool down to 4ºC. Leave to mature for 12 to 24 hours and churn.
Montage in the pan
Scatter the fruit dice all over the ice cream when extracted from the machine, although they can also be added into the ice cream machine directly, at the end of the churning process. This way, they are prevented from breaking due to the movement of the paddles of the machine.
Presentation as an ice cream brick
Yellow spray
- 50 % cocoa butter
- 80 g white couverture yellow coloring
Heat and mix well.
Montage
BRICK
Fill a pastry bag with the ice cream mix together with the gelled fruit dice. Use a large tip so the fruit does not get stuck on their way out. Fill a brick-shaped silicone mold and reserve in the freezer.
COVER
Fill the mold with the ice cream mix. Reserve in the freezer. Apply the yellow spray at 35ºC when the ice cream is at a temperature between -20 and -22ºC. At this point, it is important to bear in mind that the less hot the spray is, the denser or thicker it will be and, consequently, it will run with more difficulty through the nozzle of the airbrush. The temperature contrast between the spray and the ice cream and the diameter of the nozzle of the airbrush are the variables that intervene in this velvet effect. Reserve in the freezer.
Unmold the brick and cover and join them.
